Day 4 of the ongoing PCJ Delhi Couture Week in New Delhi's Taj Palace Hotel, it was decided was going to be Manish Malhotra's, the big designer with a glamorous showstopper, and unflinching Bollywood patronage.
Perhaps that explained the tepid turnout for the first couturier of the evening, Shantanu and Nikhil. As the stands filled up little by little, Shantanu Mehra, the designer himself was seen ushering his guests to their seats. Guests that included Sarod maestro Amjad Ali Khan with his wife and their sons Amaan and Ayaan, actor Mukul Dev, former cricketer Nikhil Chopra, prospective buyers from the West among other Delhi-based socialites.
And amid heightened anticipation for Manish's show that was to follow and his celeb showstopper, Katrina Kaif, Shantanu & Nikhil's girls took to the ramp looking Gothic and timeless in a melange of Victorian gowns, flowy skirts, jackets, Barbie doll dresses complemented with a sedate, warrior princess look. That very moment the audiences' were drawn, the world outside forgotten, and the designer succeeded in his job.
Theme: The ramp a shirking map of the world with life-size chess coins scattered on it and cane chairs heaped on one corner, for the next half hour or so became home to women of the world who wage a daily battle for their survival, for their rights in a society that in times of economic crisis has come down harsher on them.
Collection and Colours: In a bid to restore and resurrect modern day women, the designer duo took their spectators on a joy ride of highly innovative designs, textures, colours, silhouettes, detailing, and avant-garde artistry. The first leg of the show displayed a whole range of elaborate lehengas with brocade work on net and silks teamed with backless metal tops. We simply loved the opening ensemble, a peach gown with metal works and dramatic puffed shoulders, model Pia Trivedi carried with panache. It is worth a note that the collection despite its heavy embellishments and embroidery work, maintained a subdued colour scheme, barring the few times it merged into charcoal black against a blood red base, making the designers' intent unmistakable.
Silhouettes: The fish-cut legenga in burnt yellow with heavy zardosi work earned the loudest applause from the audience. Gradually the lehengas gave way to sarees in peaches and pretty pinks in net with lace and gota work. We thought the black silk saree with a broad red border and silver Benarasi work gorgeous. In keeping with the sentiment of the show, the designers showcased this beautiful drape that depicted the dark world she inhabits and the burning passion within her to break free.
The transition continued from sarees to frilly Barbie doll dresses in net and silk worn over sheer leggings with thick embellishments on the ankles. It was a successful attempt all the way to blend the Victorian with the Gothic, and yet bring about an innate sense of tradition.
Fabrics: Mostly traditional weaves were used in the collection. There was handloom silk with a distressed feel, silks, French lace with an Indianised feel, net with silk, applique, brocades, embroideries with gota, and Benarasi work apart from the use of metallic gold and silver.
Accessories: Blingy stilettos, hair done up in a tall knot above the head, an intense eye make up and a strip of metal dangling from the forehead to the chin, completed the warrior princess look.
Designer speak: Post show speaking about his collection, Shantanu said, "It is a very emotional collection, and is driven by an attempt to resurrect today's women to her power in times of socio-economic distress." He spoke at length about the fluidity of his couture line, the romanticism brought to it with an eccentric ramp arrangement, and the deliberate use of harsh, distressed textures, while Nikhil enlightened us on the use of fabrics and their styling. Though the designers let it slip that one of their dresses, a metal jacket with a long skirt, weighted 15 kg, and quickly made up for it by thanking the models for carrying their creations with elan.
On begin asked about the price range of the collection, a reluctant Shantanu said, "It's not a good idea to talk about the price range until the collection hits the shelves." And added as an afterthought, "Some of them are priceless, I might never put a price tag on them." "...and probably not end up selling them," jibed his brother Nikhil.
Rating: 8/10
anwesha.mittra@indiatimes.co.in
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Labels: Fashion
